The sleek geometry, rich colour contrasts, and cinematic flair of Art Deco design is re-emerging as a powerful style statement. But this is not a mere return to vintage glamour. Today’s Art Deco-inspired jewellery, led by visionary Indian jewellers, is unapologetically modern, fluid, and deeply personal.

Modernization of Art Deco

While Art Deco is back, but it has not made a comeback in its original avatar. A new generation of Indian jewellers is reinterpreting its symmetry, structure and splendour through fluidity, colour, and self-expression. Tiara Dhody, Treasures by Tiara, Mumbai, believes Art Deco is not a blueprint to be followed — it is a visual language to be spoken with new inflection. “My Deco Collection is not about copying history — it is about reinterpreting it,” she explains. “I am drawn to the sharp geometry and cinematic elegance of the era, but I soften it with storytelling and bold, modern colour. The pieces feel architectural, yes — but also emotional. They are designed for the woman who wants her jewellery to speak before she does,” Dhody adds.

That sense of reinterpretation runs through the collections of other designers as well. Neeti Patwa, Oropel, Mumbai, sees Deco as a design philosophy that invites contrast and duality — especially when merged with Indian sensibilities. “We have modernized Art Deco for today’s Indian customer by blending uncut diamonds with full-cut diamonds,” she says. “It is a balance of traditional charm and contemporary brilliance. The contrast allows both styles to shine — raw and refined side by side,” she adds. 

Where vintage Deco was often stark and restrained in its colour palette, the Indian revival is saturated with emotion and pigment. For Ankita Kothari of Anan Jewels, Mumbai, colour plays a transformative role. “In our DécoLuxe collection, we brought in fancy yellow diamonds, rubies, emeralds — each stone carefully placed to elevate the composition,” she says, adding,  “Colour adds soul to the structure. It softens the edges, and gives it movement.”

Mira Gulati of Mirari, Gurgaon, has taken a similarly symbolic approach in her Empire State Collection. “Today’s generation does not accept design at face value — it  seeks authenticity, intention, and relevance. That is why, for us, it is essential not to simply recreate the vintage aesthetic. Instead, we craft a new design language that draws from Deco’s heritage but speaks to modern identity,” Gulati says. 

Blending To Bring In the Magic 

The young jewellers reinventing  Art Deco have not limited themselves to the previously conceived lines of style. They are experimenting with diamonds, stones and metals, “We use brilliant-cut rounds, baguettes, and a few signature navettes to accentuate structure. But the magic really happens when diamonds meet colour — sapphires, rubies, emeralds. The contrast makes the diamonds sharper, brighter, and more confident. Each stone is placed like punctuation: deliberate, powerful, and never overdone.” says Dhody.

Kothari highlights the enduring  charm of yellow diamonds and the intricate beauty of delicate enamel work. She says, “In the earring designs, the spotlight is on fancy yellow pear-shaped diamonds, which lend a warm, radiant charm to the composition. These vibrant stones are beautifully offset by a striking emerald center stone, creating a stunning contrast that captures attention. Another standout earring design features four marquise-cut diamonds, elegantly arranged to create a star-like formation, framed with a delicate border of enamel work — a nod to the intricate detailing popular in the Art Deco period.”

Gulati believes it is the cuts of the diamonds that truly bring this style alive. “We have highlighted some truly classic and striking cuts — baguette cut, princess cut, and round brilliant cut diamonds. Each one adds its own character and sparkle to the designs, staying true to the clean elegance of the Art Deco style,” she adds. 

A Closer Look At Signature Deco Pieces 

The Deco identity is expressed by every jeweller through signature pieces that do more than sparkle — they tell stories. Dhody’s standout creation, the Sunburst Medallion Pendant, encapsulates her vision of empowered femininity. “It features a deep ruby centre set in radiant orange enamel, with diamond rays fanning outward in gold,” she says, adding,  “Around it, a border of blue sapphires encircles the form like a spotlight. It is meant to feel like a compass — centering you in your power.”

Patwa’s design narrative leans into a fusion of techniques — arranging uncut diamonds in geometric formations, then framing them with full-cut brilliance. “One of our key pieces is set in 14ct gold with a mix of yellow and rose tones. It is where past and present meet — traditional Indian craftsmanship housed within Deco’s elegant geometry,” she says. 

Kothari’s Ruby Radiance Necklace is her ode to symmetry — but reimagined for the Indian wearer. “The necklace starts with a vivid row of rubies at the centre. They are flanked by alternating pear-shaped and emerald-cut diamonds, each increasing in size towards the middle. There is movement in the structure — it flows, while still feeling deliberate,” she explains. 

Even materials are chosen with modern relevance in mind. Gulati offers her Elegantia Danglers in rose, yellow, and white gold, reflecting the Indian consumer’s growing preference for personalization. “One standout piece is the Elegantia Danglers. These statement earrings are available in three beautiful finishes — rose gold, white gold, and yellow gold — so there is something for everyone. They are a perfect example of how we have combined intricate diamond cuts with sleek metalwork to create something that feels both timeless and new,” she says. 

What ties these interpretations together is a shared understanding: today’s Indian customers are not looking for Deco nostalgia. They want something that mirrors their layered lives — pieces that feel bold, personal, and wearable across settings.

“These are not museum pieces — they are meant to be worn with denim, saris, or nothing at all,” says Dhody. “It is about giving structure to self-expression,” she declares.

Kothari echoes this sentiment, saying, “We have modernized Art Deco by blending its structured design language with fluidity and softness. Traditional sharp angles are balanced with curves, and rigid forms are infused with movement. This allows each piece to feel elegant without being overpowering — perfect for today’s multi-faceted lifestyle, where jewellery must transition from day to evening effortlessly.”

And that, ultimately, is the new code of Art Deco in India. It is not about revival — it is about reinvention. With every geometric form, vivid stone, and purposeful cut, India’s jewellers are turning Deco into a tool of modern storytelling. One that is rooted in heritage, but shaped for now.